Guiyang to Kunming

Day 19: Guiyang to Huishui – 58km

• End altitude:  960m
• Gain:              368m
• Max altitude:1,233m
  

 The hotel buffet breakfast was one of the best so far so we ate as much as we could stuff in before leaving. We headed south out of the city down to the railway station. The wide grand four lane highway ends at the the station and turns abruptly onto a narrow, rough cement road through the less cosmopolitan part of the city, a great contrast from the slick Hong Tong Mall and the high rise hotels.

We came onto a six lane highway out of town and were surprised by the number of policemen on duty along the road. On average there was one every 250m for the next 17km. They all looked too young to be police and were smartly turned out with sparkling white gloves on. It was like having a guard of honour. Just slightly less numerous were the street cleaners who were diligently sweeping the road and pavements. We decided that some important person must be expected but never got to know who it was.

By midday we reached Qinyan. This town was originally built in 1378, in the Ming dynasty to house troops.

Its stone building, temples and narrow cobbled and stepped streets remain virtually intact and it is now understandably a tourist hot spot. As always there was an admission charge but the girls at the desk let us leave our bikes in their back room while we wandered round. It is a fascinating place, enclosed with an impressive wall with four arched gates.

 It is famous for some strange culinary delights: Pigs trotters, a special tofu, chicken peppers and many types of smoked animal parts.








In one of the temples were some incredible fossils of flowers and leaves. In another there was an example of an old loom for weaving silk and rows of bonsai trees.

Not long after leaving Qinyan we had our third puncture in four days, this time Steve's back wheel. The edges of the roads here are littered with broken glass, bits of plastic and metal. A  man went past us on a motorbike with a large, apparently live, snake coiled around his handlebars.

After booking into the only hotel we could find in Huishui we had just enough time to get showered before the police were knocking on the door again. It seems that the hotel staff really struggle to fill in the registration forms as they can't read the English on the passports and visas. On the corner of the street sat a whole row of women waiting for sewing work.

Day 20: Huishui to Changshun – 37km

• End altitude: 1,155m
• Gain:              625m
• Max altitude:1,240m
  

With only a short day's ride, we had a lie in, brought fruit and buns for breakfast then sat at the side of the road to eat them. The first valley we rode through was very industrial with large processing plants, concrete block manufacturing and yet more quarries. It was smelly and dusty and the road was very busy. They are building another motorway and this seems to be attracting yet more industry with several big building projects underway.

The next valley was more rural but still we could see the massive motorway construction in the distance. It seems like the road is being constructed to run midway between the mountain peaks and the valley floor so there are long elevated sections standing on massive concrete towers. Parts of the mountains have been blasted off to build cuttings and then every so often the road disappears into long tunnels. An impressive feat of engineering.

The weather was overcast again and our mood wasn't too good. It's gets a bit tiresome at times being the constant centre of attention and Steve almost lost his cool with a trio of teenagers as they cruised slowly past us on their motorbike for the fourth time. A little later a man in a four wheel drive was so busy looking at us as he passed that he misjudges the bend and nearly skidded off the road into the ditch.

Rolling into Changshun we saw a big, expensive looking hotel and Steve went to enquire about the price. He thought the receptionist said 300 Y, which was too expensive , and walked out. Karen meanwhile was 'chatting' with a group of local ladies. By sign language they asked how old she was and appeared very impressed with the reply. We couldn't find any other hotels and on return to the first one found it was actually only 150 Y, but we needed to leave a deposit of 300Y.

As usual we had eaten and into bed by 9.30pm. At 11.30 there was loud knocking on the door. The police needed to see our passports.

Day 21: Changshun to Ziyun – 74km

• End altitude: 1,200m
• Gain:             1,410m
• Max altitude 1,459m
  

At 7am in the morning the clock tower on the little hill, just behind out hotel, woke us with the strains of 'Jingle Bells'. It was pouring with rain and the clouds were grey and low. Steve didn't want to ride but Karen couldn't bear the thought of a whole day in a town with nothing to see or do and no Internet, so she insisted he get up and on his bike.

Breakfast was included in the hotel price and we sat there with our noodles in watery soup, steamed buns, hard boiled egg and rice porridge. As we ate we could hear the chef in the kitchen coughing and spitting and were totally put off the mucousy, glutinous, tasteless rice porridge.

The rain was just drizzle as we rode out of town. The road was reduced to a single lane as they were re-laying the concrete. It started to pour with rain and we couldn't stop because there was so much traffic on the narrow road. Karen thought she could cycle over the new section of concrete to the other side of the road but it was still wet and a little man who was sheltering from the rain came out and shouted at her.Now soaked, we managed to stop at an office to shelter until the worst passed and we could get our ponchos on. It continued to rain heavily for the next two hours and the road climbed up slowly through the big pointy mountains. The hills were wooded and the views fabulous as the clouds started to clear and the sun came out. Everyone was very friendly and greeting us as we passed.

According to the Google map the road ended after 35km and we presumed that the remainder of the ride would be on an unsurfaced track. It was a nice surprise to find that it is now all tarmacked. We sat at the side of the road for a snack and a man came up to chat. He had a speech impediment and so had developed good skills in mime so we could actually understand some of what he was saying.

Passing a small scruffy village we spotted a building that was obviously a Christian church and turned off to get a closer look. It was a small, simple Catholic Church, one of the first we have seen here. A geroup of teenagers were playing in the yard and insisted we go up and have a look at the inside.

At the top of the next climb we had puncture number four, again glass. Dropping down to the next valley we were back in the middle of the motorway building. We had to ride through the construction traffic along a very muddy, rough track for about 500m and we got covered in gunge. At the top of the last pass before Ziyun there was a row of about a dozen people sat at the side of the road, each with a basket full of different types of mushrooms picked from the forest, hoping to sell them to passing drivers.

There was a car wash on the way into Ziyun, just a lady with a power-washer. She washed the bikes, the bags and even scrubbed our shoes for us so we could get into a hotel without causing consternation.

Searching for food that evening we walked all round the town but found nothing to entice us except a few kebab stalls on the market place. Then we stumbled across a whole street of restaurants, all of the 'private dining room' type. The most promising one had a big tank of river fish outside. The meal consisted of a large pan of broth set on a gas ring in the middle of the table. The fish was very thinly sliced and served with raw cabbage, bean sprouts and slices of turnip. The vegetables go into the broth to cook and the fish is dipped in for a minute to cook before dipping it in a soy/chili/coriander marinade. Very good but very expensive at 200 Y. The three young waitresses couldn't take enough photographs of us with their mobile phone cameras.

Day 22: Ziyun to Wangmo – 110km

• End altitude: 580m
• Gain:             2,080m
• Max altitude:1,660m
  

We had profiled today's ride on 'Map My Ride' so knew what to expect, or thought we did. 110Kms with few villages and a total climb of 2,000m reaching a maximum altitude of 1,450m. There were some big ascents but the last 30km was downhill, following a river valley into Wango. If we completed the 80kms by 4.00pm we could do the descent in about an hour. Little did we know that this ride had a sting in its tail.

The plan was to set off early but we didn't leave town till 8.50am. The first 35km were relatively easy, flat and downhill on a newly resurfaced road. Trying to get through the village of Houchang was well nigh impossible. It was market day and from near and far everyone was heading there, huge groups walking down the roads and across the fields with their baskets. The whole road was blocked by the mass of shoppers and sellers and the buses and lorries were trying to blast a way through them with their screaming horns. The ethnic dress here is predominantly blue so the whole street was a sea of blue tunics and navy, tartan like head scarves.

Later, a man on a motorbike came up beside us and asked us to stop to talk. Having seen us riding through the village he wanted to try out his English. He was teaching English at a local school. We talked about our journey and told him we were on our way to Wangmo. He warned us the road was 'dangerous' but we assumed he meant the drivers.

Just before the start of the first climb we saw a traffic accident. A bus had come down the hill and smashed into a tree at the side of the road. As we climbed up and up there were a lot of landslips, with large parts of the road fallen hundreds of feet into the valley below. A second accident  involving a lorry and a car made us think about the advice of the English teacher. The views over the mountains were wonderful and although it seemed remote there were always plenty of people around, walking along the roads, tending their land, herding their cattle and ponies.

For lunch we had noodles (yes, again) in a roadside place. A huge group of locals gathered and discussed our map and journey. We wish we had produced a leaflet in Chinese to explain what we are doing.

Puncture number five was mended with an audience of Mum, Dad and two children who were walking down the road and just stood around and watched silently. The last long ascent was to 1,630m and having found no roadside food all day, we stopped at the top to eat our last remaining fruit and nuts. A group of young teenage girls walked past and also tried out their English on us. They were so excited to meet us and took lots of photos on their mobile phones as well as trying on our sun glasses.

At nearly 4pm we set off on the downhill. The road here runs down a narrow, steep sided valley. A flash flood during the summer had ripped down tons of debris, boulders and earth from the mountains and scoured away all of the road and its bridges. Instead of a smooth surfaced descent there was just a steep, rough, cleared track through the piles of boulders. It was quite impossible to imagine what this force of nature must have looked and sounded like.


We needed all of our mountain biking skills for the treacherous 12km descent around boulders, through mud and avoiding other traffic until we reached a broader part of the valley where the road had escaped damage.

There were lorries and motorbikes all climbing up the rubble and one man in a sparkling Audi saloon. Even further down the valley there were sections of road which had disappeared and steep rough sections of track to negotiate. It was getting dark, we were at the end of our energy and to cap it all it started to rain.

A mediocre hotel didn't help our mood but later we found a restaurant which had different types of meat and vegetables on display. We pointed to chicken, cucumber, beans and aubergine which the guy cooked into four delicious dishes. Strange how we ordered half a chicken but when it was served there were only legs, wings and feet. What happened to the breast?

Day 23: Wangmo to Ceheng – 61km

• End altitude: 640m
• Gain:             1,813m
• Max altitude:1,023m

Today would be another hard climbing day with 1,800m of ascent and it was drizzling at 8.00am. Sick of noodles for breakfast we went into the local version of MacDonald's and had chicken burger, fries and orange squash, lots more calories.

By 10am the skies cleared and the sun came out. Layers of clothes were soon discarded and for the first time in two weeks it was sun hats, shorts and t-shirts. The first climb was a long one but at the top the road skirted around the top of the valley giving views over the forested mountains and the satisfying sight of the village we had ridden through far below. Drenched in sweat and shaking with exhaustion we stopped at the col for a drink and food. No sooner had we parked the bikes than a car drew up and a Chinese couple got out and insisted on taking photographs of us. We weren't looking that pretty.

On the other side we dropped down about 600m to a pretty valley with a reservoir. A  roadside restaurant there had a tank full of fish and we choose a couple to be cooked up in broth for our lunch. From here the road followed the river valley upstream with a few climbs. A couple of three wheeled vans passed us both carrying a huge stack of mattresses. Every time we stopped to rest other vehicles would pull up and we were offered lots of cigarettes.

We reached Ceheng by 4pm and were relieved to see a newish looking hotel called 'Lui's Express Inn' at the top of the main street. No need to ride right round town searching. This town had a really nice feeling about it. It was Friday so no school tomorrow and families and children were enjoying the warm evening. A crowd of older citizens were sitting watching something on a huge roadside TV screen. There were clear roads, proper pavements and more private cars.


Day off: Ceheng 

After more than 5,200m of climbing in the last three days we were ready for a day off. We spent most of the day hiding in the hotel room, working on the blog and sending e-mail. For lunch we went next door to the burger place. Sitting near the window eating our food we had crowds of local teenagers staring at us in disbelief.

In the evening we ventured out looking for some good food. The previous evening we had passed a place with an English name board called 'Backstreet Bar'. Inside there was a small bar area and a selection of private rooms. It was owned by a Chinese man named Tony who spoke quite good English. We had a beer and asked him if there was anywhere good to eat nearby. He suggested that if we told him what we wanted, he would order it for us and we could eat it in the bar. We ordered a couple of dishes and a big bowl of soup.

Day 24: Ceheng to Anlong – 59km 

• End altitude: 1,400m
• Gain:             1,707m
• Max altitude 1,565m

For some reason we both slept badly. Karen had a nightmare which woke her and Steve was in pain from a cold sore. It was 8.00am before we got up. Breakfast was doughnuts in soya milk at a street cafe. Even there we were not immune from the teenagers with their mobile phone cameras.

For most of the morning we were slowly climbing up into the mountains. Initially the slopes were wooded but as we got higher the terrain was more barren with bare stone and grasses. We rode through Ceyang and it was Sunday market. Among the goods for sale were rows of young pigs being sold for fattening. They were lined up on the pavement, all wrapped in wicker baskets, with no room to move. They were very distressed and squealing. Further along the road was this, more pampered pig, strolling along the road.

Once up at 1,300m the road went through flat open valleys between the steep sided conical mountains and lots of small villages. We saw women spreading out lengths of indigo dyed cloth to dry in the sun. The women's head ware changed from tartan scarves to strips of white cloth wound round the head many times to form a 'polo mint' type of hat. The morning's slow climb was arduous and our average speed was only 9kph.

 Our lunch stop was well planned as just as we sat down with our bowl of noodles it started to pour with rain. By the time we left it had stopped. After lunch the riding was easier and faster with more level parts and some downhill. We arrived in Anlong by 3.30pm so had time for a nap before tea.

There was a busy night market just down the road from the hotel with lots of food stalls. One had tables with glass hotplates, heated on a gas ring. There were a selection of plates of different meat, fish and vegetables. We chose about 10 different ones and they were cooked for us on the hotplate with the addition of plenty of chilies and soy sauce. It was delicious.

Day 25: Anlong to Xingyi – 74km 

• End altitude: 1,249m
• Gain:              813m
• Max altitude:1,500m

Once the morning mist had cleared it was another warm, sunny day. Today's ride promised to be much easier than the last four days, with mostly flat and downhill and no big climbs. The downside that we were back on a main road, the G324, which was busy and noisy with fast moving cars and motorbikes overtaking the slower moving heavy trucks.

Anlong was a larger place than we had realised with a large area of new development on its western side. The road was being widened and large amounts of topsoil had been removed, leaving a large section of bedrock. On the top of it were two little guys with pneumatic drills, chipping it slowly away. Looked like it would be about three years to move it.

Along the busy road, with all the trucks belching out their thick black exhaust, were racks of glass noodles drying in the sun. Further along a group of men were slaughtering and plucking ducks. It looked quite barbaric. During the course of the day we saw four weddings and a funeral.

At 11.30 the school children go home for lunch. They often have to walk a long way and even the five and six year olds are completely unsupervised, wandering home along the busy roads. A group of teenage boys on bikes raced us for a while. We had lunch at Zhengtun, tasty pork dumplings in broth.

In the afternoon the traffic seemed to be more manic than ever, with lorries being overtaken by cars which were being overtaken by motorbikes. Several times lorries had to pull over close to us to escape overtaking traffic. Another couple of touring cyclists came towards us on the opposite side of the road but because of the traffic we were all more intent on staying safe than stopping to talk.

At Dingxiao there was a minor road marked on the map going through Maling Gorge. We thought we might escape the traffic going that way. The road was no quieter and certainly not as minor one. It snaked down into the gorge, passing lots of stalls selling barbecued sweet corn. The gorge was impressive and so we decided to cough up the entrance fee and go and have a look.

It was 80 Y each to go in and another 30 Y each to ride on the glass elevator into and out of the gorge(who wants to walk up a couple of hundred steps when you've cycled all that way?) There were only a few other tourists so it was peaceful and we spent an hour walking on the pathway along the bottom of the narrow, 200m gorge. There were several waterfalls cascading down the sides, one of which you could walk behind.

Xingyi is yet another rapidly expanding city. We rode in along a wide, tree lined boulevard with lots of big newly constructed hotels. Deciding that there maybe some cheaper options in the older town centre we rode up the hill and got into the one-way traffic system. The sat nav ran out of power at this critical moment so we rode round in circles at least twice before managing to find a hotel. The city centre was impressive at night with lots of special lighting and busy with people shopping, sitting and, of course, dancing.

Day 26: Xingyi to Luoping – 81km 

• End altitude:  1,500m
• Gain:              1,296m
• Max altitude: 1,651m

At 7am it was pouring with rain so we lay in bed doing the crossword and trying to decided whether to stay another day in Xingyi. By 7.50 it had stopped so we packed, found doughnuts for breakfast and headed off, this time avoiding the one-way system and navigating through the quieter back streets.

The G324 climbs up a hill out of the city on a concrete road. The concrete surface has been cut into strips and roughened, presumably to slow the downhill traffic, but it made for a very uncomfortable ride up.We expected the road to be just as busy as yesterday but there was much less traffic, and most of the heavy trucks turned off after about 5km so from there the road was quiet.

After about 10km there was more road construction. Our road ran along the side of a slightly elevated section of the new one on an unsurfaced track. The overnight rain had turned it into a mud bath with thick orange goo and big puddles. Although it was only about 1km long we were completely be-splattered.

The sky was grey and it was much colder, Steve had to stop to put on his tights. He needed them because after that was a long snaking descent into a river valley. The new, surfaced, but not yet open, new road was high up on the left side and the railway on the right of the valley. After the long downhill there was another short section of rough road and then we came onto a dual carriageway. A sign at the side prohibited bicycles and pedestrians but there was no alternative road so we carried on. At this point we crossed over the border of Guanzhou and into Yunnan.

Initially we had the whole carriageway to ourselves. It was quieter than any of the country lanes we have been on. We gradually saw more traffic, bikes, pedestrians and the odd buffalo and decided that there was nothing to worry about. The three policemen at the toll gate just laughed at us. The road went through several small villages and we saw a popular little restaurant so stopped for lunch. The place was crowded with men all eating, playing cards and drinking games. The owner showed us a huge cold joint of roast beef. He sliced off a generous amount and served it in a pot of broth with plenty of raw green vegetables to add. It was the most wonderful bit of meat we've had since leaving home.

After lunch there was a long slow ascent and then an easy slow downhill to Luoping so we finished the ride before 4pm. We stayed at the brand new Luoping Hotel. The bed linen and towels were brand new and the beds were very, very comfy.

Day 27: Luoping to Shizong – 51km 

• End altitude:  1855m
• Gain:               658m
• Max altitude: 1,964m

We had to get maximum benefit from the comfy beds so had a lie-in till 9.00am this morning. It was a slightly boring ride, continuing along the dual-carriageway. It by-passes all the villages and there was little to see. There was a gradual climb up to 1,965m and it was colder still. There were few trees and less agriculture. The low grey skies did nothing to lift our spirits and it was cold.

Shizong was another featureless town. It did have lots of wide roads and open areas with modern sculptures but no people. They were all in the narrow rough streets in the town centre. The hotel we booked into did not have any air-con or heating and we were frozen. Thinking we could warm up over a meal we went in search of a restaurant. But all the restaurants have their doors wide open and no heating. These Chinese are made of stern stuff. No wonder they like their pots of broth on a burner in the middle of the table. It's the only way to keep the food and themselves warm. 

Day 28: Shizong to Luliang – 71km 

• End altitude:  1,830m
• Gain:              587m
• Max altitude: 2,150

Opposite the hotel was a cafe which served breakfast. It was very popular and we sat on a table next to the local police, eating noodles and drinking hot milk (cows, for the first time). The grey skies of yesterday were gone and replaced with cloudless blue.

We left town on the old G324 road to avoid riding through a tunnel. It climbed a small hill through pine forests which were alive with bird-song. It rejoined the dual carriageway and we rode through farmland with bright red soil, contrasting with the grey rock mountains behind. The maize had been harvested and the corn stalks were collected into sheaves standing in neat rows along the edges of the fields.

The road climbed gradually to 2,100m, through isolated villages where the main form of transport was ox-carts, most of them travelling in the wrong direction along the hard shoulder.

At Zhaokua the highway ended and became the G78 and bikes were definitely not allowed. Turning off onto the old G324 we were back onto a rough and poorly maintained road. It was busy with heavy lorries transporting coal and quarry materials. In places it was just as rough and difficult to negotiate as the G321in Guanzhou had been.

At least it was warm and sunny and mostly downhill. Luliang is close to an Air Force Base and low flying jets flew over our heads as we approached. The road into the town was lined with stone masons carving grave stones out of pale grey rock. We rode a couple of circuits round the town looking for a hotel near the centre but could only find old, grubby ones. There was something going on in the town square, masses of flowers and these large paper and flower creations. We ended up riding back out to the edge of town to book into the big Tong Le Hotel, apparently the best in the area.

We were befriended by one of the young  trainee hotel managers who spoke very good English. He had just completed his degree in Hotel Management and Tourism. He invited us to join him at the hotel staff's evening meal which was only 10Y each.

Day 29: Luliang to Shilin – 50km

• End altitude: 1,750m
• Gain:             176m           
• Max altitude:1,965m

It was another blue sky, sunny day but very cold, even at 9.30am. Breakfast was included in our room price but any hopes of bacon or toast was dashed and it was noodles or nothing. There was some water melon and hard boiled eggs.

The route to Shilin followed the G324, which was a dual carriageway, an improvement on yesterday, but there were some big holes in the tarmac. Most of the traffic uses the G78 so it was fairly quiet.The stone carvers on this road were producing lions, all shapes and sizes

We arrived at the outskirts of Shilin at 12.30 and had lunch in one of the numerous roadside restaurants. We wanted to sit at one of the outside tables in the sunshine. The staff were nervous about serving us and seemed to be drawing straws for who got the task. Eventually a waitress brought us a menu with an English section and we ordered what everyone else was eating – the roast duck. They brought us a whole one, complete with head, whose accusatory gaze was a bit off putting.

Crowds of tourists were milling around the other restaurants and when we arrived at the Stone Forest Scenic Area it was wall to wall tourist buses with groups of big Chinese tourists in their matching caps following guides with flags on sticks. Everything we hate about sight seeing. We were also nervous that such an obvious tourist venue would be a magnet for petty thieves, making leaving the bikes and gear a big risk.

At the entrance gate the advertised price for entry was 175Y each, for two of us nearly our whole day's budget. We turned round and left. Actually, as we rode back along the road into town we saw enough sculpted and shaped rock to satisfy our needs and all for free. We also had to mend two more punctures.

We booked into a little hotel in the town. It was a simple affair, it did have a sit-on toilet but no heating or air-con. The owner was friendly and obliging and let us lock the bikes up in his shed. Walking up the main street to find somewhere to eat, we came across a couple of men butchering a pony on the pavement, washing away the blood and gore with a hose pipe into the drain. Not very appetite inducing. We chose our meat carefully at the restaurant not far away. Returning to our little room afterwards we kept most of our clothes on to get into bed, it was so cold.

Day30: Shilin to Kunming – 89km

• End altitude: 1,900m
• Gain:             1,120m
• Max altitude:2,187m

The morning was cold and cloudy as we set off. Still following the G324 we left Shilin and the road was almost deserted. There were yet more strange rock formations littering the fields.  Immediately there was a climb but it was slow and easy. After that was a really long descent. The road was wet from the lorries that use water to cool their brakes and the road surface was covered in oily residue which splashed all over our shoes, bags and bikes.

This took us into a river valley and we began to climb gradually upstream through an ever narrowing gorge. There were two railway lines, one on each side and they were way above our heads so we knew there was quite a bit more climbing yet. The sun broke through the clouds and meant some layers of clothes had to be shed. At the top of the gorge we came out onto plateau with barren mountains towering above it. We ate lunch in the next town before continuing to climb ever upwards. The scenery here reminded us so much of Spain with the scent of eucalyptus, prickly pears, white washed villages and herds of goats.

With relief we reached the highest point after 70km at 2,187m. The guard on duty looked a bit tired and didn't pay us much attention. After that we expected a nice long downhill but there were still a few short hills to go.

By now the traffic had increased and was quite heavy and chaotic with the cars and lorries forming two lanes wherever possible and weaving in and out. On the outskirts of Kunming, predictably, they were constructing a new road at a key traffic hub. All of the traffic ground to a halt as we came onto an unsurfaced and very rough uphill with two roads feeding heavy lorries and a very confusing diagram above our heads of the route into the city. We were on the equivalent of a huge roundabout jammed with lorries all vying for the best route through the potholes and boulders which made up the 'road'. At the top of the hill we had to turn left through the mass of lorries going right and then cross the flow of traffic coming in from the left.

The next section of road was no better, with the added interest of increasing numbers of pedestrians and motorbikes to avoid also. There was a car-wash along here so the bikes got most of the mud washed off them but not so much of the oil.

Once past the road works the route into Kunming was relatively easy with a separate bicycle lane. Of course this is China so there were cars parked on it, taxis driving up it and plenty of strolling pedestrians. The first two hotels we tried were too expensive but the 'Spring City Star Hotel' on the other side of the road had new, clean rooms for 190Y and suited us perfectly.

For our evening meal we walked to find a restaurant recommended in LP called Dianwei Fanzhuang. We found a nice restaurant, very smart, which had a menu with pictures and some unusual, delicious, carefully prepared and served dishes. Not sure if it was the one in LP or not.

 We will be spending five days in Kunming, resting, sightseeing and getting our Vietnam visas.

Guilin to Guiyang

Day 10: Guilin to Ping'an – 95km

• End altitude: 1,000m
• Gain:              2,500m
• Max altitude:1,011m
  

We were up at 6.30am and had breakfast in the hotel. By 8.00 we were on the road, heading out of Guilin on the G321 towards the airport. The traffic was the busiest we've seen yet in China and at one major junction there was a long queue of vehicles and a little traffic policewoman with a whistle in charge of the motorbikes and cyclists.

It was 15km before we cleared the suburbs of Guilin and for a while the road was quieter. Once it got to 9.30am, the tourist buses carrying passengers up to the rice fields started to pass us in large numbers. The first 50km was pretty flat and we averaged about 20kph so after three hours we were sat in a village drinking coke and eating biscuits. A group of men arrived in a convoy of cars all adorned with pink bows and flowers. It was the Chinese equivalent of a Stag Party. They set off a large strip of fire crackers and then paraded through the market beating drums and carrying a wooden frame adorned with live ducks and other fruit and vegetables.

From here there were two climbs, one to 450m then, after a descent, another up to 950m. Just before the top of the second climb another touring cyclist caught up with us. He was Ed, a Brit from London who had quit his boring job in insurance to cycle RTW. He had just spent 5 weeks driving to Mongolia in a Citroen Saxo in the Mongolian Rally and was now riding his bike south, heading for SE Asia and New Zealand. We all sped down the other side of the hill (Ed a lot faster than us) and then sat in a roadside cafe to have lunch in the village of Heping.

From there we took the turning towards the Longhi Terraces Scenic Area which meant paying an entrance fee of 80Y each. The road was along a narrow river valley through a couple of villages with wooden houses very like those in the Alps. The local women wear traditional dress with black skirts and stockings and brightly patterned pink jackets. They grow their thick black hair long and wear it coiled on their foreheads, held in place by a scarf.

After cycling 10km along the valley we arrived at the turning for Ping'an, just 6km away. The only problem was that it was up all the way with hairpins, just like Alp D'Huez. Ed left us behind as we slogged away in granny gear. Only the first bend was steep, about 15%, but after that it was easier. It still took an hour to get to the top.

At the end of the road was a car park where the buses stopped and then we went through the gate into the bottom of the village. Only local traffic is allowed beyond there and if tourists don't want to climb up the steps they pay porters to carry them in a sedan chair.

It was quite a long climb to our accommodation, up many steps and we had to do the trip twice. First time carrying the bags, then back down to fetch the bikes. Ed was a gentleman and carried Karen's bike for her. Our hotel was the 'Longhi One', with views down the mountain over the rice terraces.

In the evening we met up with Ed for a meal. The restaurant offered the local specialities; sparrows. edible frogs and snails but we settled for tofu and chicken. After the meal the restaurant owners and staff were all sitting down for their own meal and the baby was dumped in Karen's lap whilst they ate. Her only anxiety was that the babies here don't wear nappies and she was afraid of getting wet.

Day Off: Ping'an

Today we left the bikes at the hotel and walked along the traditional paved pathways which connect the villages. There were several steep stepped climbs and descents as the paths wove along the terraced fields and through shady woodland. We went through Zhongliu and Dazai, both traditional wooden villages. Even here there at the top of the mountain, with the only access by about 1km of stone steps, there is lots of building going on.

All the materials have to be carried up the mountain, using ponies and a lot of human effort. Visitors too are carried up on wooden sedan chairs, each carried by four men, happily chatting to each other like it's just a stroll in the park.

The sight of the terraces covering the sides of the mountains, often only a few feet wide is awesome. It is impossible to comprehend the incredible amount of human labour that has gone into constructing them and then maintaining and harvesting crops from them.

Ed, Steve and Tom

After a five hour walk we caught the local bus back to Ping'an. On the bus we met up with Ed again, who had also done the walk, and Tom an American from Salt Lake City who is a consultant in the shoe industry, specifically working on ski boot projects.

Day 11: Ping'an to Chengyang Bridge – 109km

• End altitude: 283m
• Gain:             2,134m
• Max altitude:752m
  

We tried to get an early start but by the time we had breakfasted, lifted the bikes up the first set of the steps, wheeled them down the next set, negotiated a steep rubble path and ridden down to the car park it was 8.30am. At least the majority of the days riding would be downhill.

It was fun riding back down the hairpins to the valley. There's not much traffic in the mornings. We were soon back onto the G321 which follows the river valley downstream.

Longsheng is the first major town. It sits in the narrow river valley and like all other towns is expanding rapidly. With limited space for further building they are in the process of removing a huge area of mountain to build apartments.

For the next 60km the road continues along the river valley. The whole of this valley is busy not only building and expanding its towns but supplying the insatiable needs of the building industry. Massive saw mills processing recently felled trees, brick and tile manufacturing, and the incessant dredging of the river and its banks for sand and gravel.

All along the road people are selling attractive coloured and shaped boulders, dredged from the river bed.

At Sanjiang we turned off the main road, following the signs to the Chengyang Wind and Rain bridge. The road ran along a small river valley, the steep sides of which were planted with tea bushes while the floor had rice paddies. There were several old bamboo water wheels, to lift water from the river to irrigate the fields.

To get into the Chengyang bridge area we paid the 55 Y each entrance fee at the booth then 5 yards further on had to show the ticket to another official and then again show it at the bridge. They don't intend anyone getting in here for free. The bridge itself was impressive. About 100years old and made from fir logs, it has no nails used in its construction.

We booked into Yang's Guesthouse, just along the track from the bridge. It is a traditional wood building with letting rooms on the upper floor above a bar and restaurant. Revived with a shower and a beer we walked into the village.

 The people of the village are descended from the Dong, one of many minority groups in this part of China, and have distinctive dress and traditions. The village square was busy with groups of women chatting, children playing and men smoking and playing cards. It felt like a relaxed, friendly and welcoming place.

Day 12: Chengyang Bridge to Congjiang -123km

• End altitude: 215m
• Gain:             732m
• Max altitude:377m
  

Yang's guesthouse had bacon (read spam) and eggs as well as banana pancakes on the breakfast menu so we left with full stomachs. It was 17km back to the outskirts of Sanjang, through the tea plantations, before we picked up the G321 again heading west. It continued to follow the river valley downstream and was wide with a smooth concrete surface.

After about 20km the road climbs over a bluff at the confluence of the Dulio and the Cong rivers. The road goes through the village of Liangkou with some of the oldest village houses we have seen yet. Dropping down the other side we were now in the valley of the Dulio river, heading upstream.




Suddenly the well groomed road deteriorated to a narrow, rough tarmac with huge potholes. It was nerve wracking in places negotiating the massive potholes, competing for road space with the buses and large laden lorries with their intimidatingly loud horns.

The roads got even worse through the towns. In each one there was a huge amount of building taking place. The roads were half blocked with piles of sand, gravel and bricks as well as lorries delivering more. Despite the relatively quiet roads into them, the centers were always a log jam of buses, lorries and taxis, all blasting their horns but going nowhere. We could weave in and out of the melee and escape at the other side.

Most of the villages we rode through were very poor with few shops or places serving food. In one place they had just slaughtered a cow and four men were busy butchering it on the pavement at the side of the road. The village dogs had gathered to feast on the blood which was pouring down the gutter. We had been looking for some lunch for 90 minutes. In desperation we stopped at a shack with a crowd of men sat outside playing cards and asked if we could get food. They pointed us to the little shop where the owner offered us pot noodles. Instead we brought oranges and drinks and sat by the roadside to eat them.

An hour later we came to a small town with a market which looked more promising. We rode into the market which was in a large covered area. As well as the usual vegetables and fruit, there were cages full of live ducks and chickens which made a tremendous noise. Outside the nearest food stall we saw a European man. We stopped to talk to him. He was Daniel Colombo, a Frenchman from Lyon. He was here on behalf of a charity called 'Association des Amities Franco-Chinoises de Lyon'. The charity provides funds for children of the minority villages to attend school. We shared lunch with him and he generously paid for us and gave us his telephone number if we needed any help in Kunming where he has many friends.

After a long day of cycling the last 10km as always was the hardest with a few small climbs and then, on the outskirts of the town a new road was being built. It will be grand in the future with wide pavements, tree lined river bank and new buildings, but currently it is a rough dusty dreary entry. The whole town centre has also had road resurfacing and new pavements and street furniture but everything is covered in a thick layer of grey dust, including all the trees. The hotel we booked into was in need of refurbishment with a damp problem making everything small musty but we were too tried to care.

 Day 13: Congjiang to Rongjiang - 82km 

• End altitude: 258m 
• Gain:             1,750m
• Max altitude:828m
  

Steve decided to look at the profile for today's ride on 'map my ride'. It showed a gradual climb over 24km to 800m, nothing steeper than 7%, then an equally slow descent followed by 40km fairly flat. Checking it out on the map he realised it went on a mountain road, not along the G321, but that it was about 10km shorter. It also went through the Dong village of Basha, about 7.5km from Congjiang, which was mentioned in Lonely Planet.

After a very mediocre breakfast at the hotel we set off over the river and started a long, steep tarmac climb. This certainly had sections steeper than 7% and we were down in first gear. After 7.5km of climbing we arrived at Basha. Although this is a through road you have to pay a village entry fee of 35 Y each. The entry gate was very busy with a lot of police and locals dressed in local costume. It seemed like something important was going to happen. The men have their hair cut very short except for a small area on the crown which they grow long in a pony tail.

We went to leave our bikes at the roadside opposite the gate thinking with all those police around they must be safe. A pretty little policewoman got very concerned. She made a phone call on her mobile and a large black people carrier arrived. She jumped in and told us to follow on the bikes. They led us up the road to the youth hostel and we left the bikes on their terrace. Then we got a ride back to the gate in the police vehicle.

Back at the gate about three coaches had arrived with a party of VIP's and we tagged along with them to see the show. The village men greeted them by playing their bamboo pipes and firing a volley with their antique rifles. All the young village girls lined up in their traditional costume with their beautiful dark hair twisted over their foreheads. We were swept along by the great mass of people through the village but it all seemed a little contrived and intrusive. We made a bid for escape but one of the VIP's turned us back.

At last we spotted a path to the top of the hill and left unobserved. Although this is a village now thoroughly on the tourist trail, it still clings onto its old ways with the women sewing, spinning and dying cloth with indigo and the men farming and hunting,

women using mallets in indigo dye process

At the youth hostel we thought we might get some food but the fire had only just been lit and the pieces of pig ears on the grill didn't entice us to wait till it was cooked.

The road continued uphill and the lovely smooth tarmac ended after about 4 km. The next 25km was unsurfaced and the profile was completely inaccurate with some short steep climbs followed by descents. The scenery was fantastic with mountains and forests all around us. In the valleys were more minority villages with terraced fields and cattle grazing.

At last we reached  800m summit and now had a long rough downhill. Reaching tarmac at last we assumed it was the G321 and turned left. After 4km of downhill the tarmac ended again and we realised we had made a mistake and had to re climb the hill and down the other side.

Where the road joined the G321 there was a bus stop in the middle of nowhere with lots of people waiting for buses and a couple of stalls selling snacks and drinks. It was nearly 3.30pm and there was still 44km to cycle to Rongjiang.

It was obvious that the this bit of the road was going to be just as poorly maintained as yesterday but it was fairly flat and the potholes were navigable. About 10km from the town there was an impressive new motorway bridge spanning the valley which had only just been completed. From here on the road was completely destroyed with a really rough surface and a thick layer of fine dust. It was starting to get dark and we only had 6km to go. Then the road turned away from the river and started climbing uphill. There was lots of traffic and lorries and it was now difficult to see the road surface. At the sides the dust was so thick that the wheels skidded and each passing vehicle threw up clouds of choking dust.

In the pitch dark we made it to the outskirts of the town and the last obstacle, a huge man-made 'ford', probably to wash the dirt from the tyres before entering the town. It was about 2 feet deep and the muddy water meant that any hazards at the base were invisible. We had to get off and push the bikes while balancing on the narrow concrete edge and avoiding the splashing from the lorries. There was a cheap hotel just beyond there and we were too exhausted to go any further.

Day 14: Rongjiang to Sandu – 112km

• End altitude: 917m 
• Gain:             921m
• Max altitude:943m
  

It was with heavy hearts that we got out of bed this morning. There was no prospect of reasonable accommodation for 112km and we couldn't imagine the road would be in any better state of repair. We rode over the grand new road bridge over the river. The activity was intense putting the finishing touches to the plan. Workmen welding on the bridge railings, electricians wiring the lights, women laying paving on the new pavements.

The town was a real wonderland, full of different racial groups, all dressed in their distinctive clothing and head wear. Young women carrying tiny babies on their backs in beautifully embroidered homemade carriers, old men bent from years of toil leaning on wooden staffs, ladies with baskets of vegetables selling to the food stall holders. We could have sat and watched all day. But we had another long day to get through.

Leaving town the road was very rough but did improve a little with about 50% reasonable surface. It continued up the river valley which was gradually getting narrower and steeper sided. Mostly it was forested, with a lot of pine plantation, interspersed with terraced agricultural areas.

The villages were mostly on the other side of the valley with access only possible by boat.

It was Sunday so the children were not at school and every village we passed through they ran along at our sides shouting hellos and laughing and giggling. Lunch was noodles as usual, served by a smiling friendly young lady who was desperate to chat but we didn't understand. She was stitching the most intricate tapestry in between serving customers.

Passing the G321 1000km marker

After 75km we thought we were on the home straight with only 35 more to go. But then the road began to climb and continued up for the next 4km as the river went through a narrow gorge. Along this section we passed the 1,000km marker for the G321 which we have followed most of the way from Goaming.

The descent was on tarmac but there were two major landslides which had taken all of the road and there was just a mound of earth and rubble to find a route over. Amazingly people were driving up this road in ordinary saloon cars.The second landslide was on the approach to the construction site of a new hydroelectric dam so there was frenetic activity to re-instate the road. Hoards of people scuttling over the rocks like ants, removing debris in baskets on their backs, men, women and children

At 90km the tarmac ended and our exhausted legs had to negotiate the rocky ascents and descents as the sun started to set. We rode the last 3km into Sandu behind a low loader carrying a bulldozer. The first hotel we saw looked quite good but the receptionist was appalled when we pushed our filthy, dust covered bikes into her pristine foyer. The next hour was spent removing the thick layer of dust from our bodies, clothes and bags. Even Peter had to have a wash and brush up. The bikes will have to wait till later.

Day Off – Sandu

It rained heavily all night and didn't show any signs of stopping so we decided to rest our weary legs and sit it out, hoping for better weather tomorrow. It was a good decision as it hardly stopped all day. We still have at least 30km of the G321 before any possible escape. We have really enjoyed seeing the scenery and villages and experiencing a very real China but couldn't recommend riding a bike along the Sanjiang to Sandu section of the G321 until it is resurfaced.

In the evening we were very sinful and went to the Chinese version of 'KFC' and had chips, coke and a whole fried chicken between us. It was utterly delicious. On the way back to the hotel we also found a 'Coffee Shop' which was a cover for a bar so enjoyed a couple of cans of beer in the elegantly furnished but almost empty hostelry.

Day 15: Sandu to Danzhai - 50km

• End altitude: 918m 
• Gain:             921m
• Max altitude:943m

The weather system which caused yesterday's heavy rain also brought with it cold air and overnight the temperature dropped about 12C. Rested and refreshed and hoping for a good road we set off. It was much better and the ride was quite challenging, climbing into the mountains to a height of about 850m. The temperature at this elevation was even lower so for the first time we were quite cold.

The houses here were different, wooden but with fancy carved wooden balconies and white painted edgings to the roofs.The new G76 motorway crosses the valley on another impressive bridge, but when we rode over it later there were no vehicles on it.

Arriving in Danzhai about 1.00pm we were searching for a reasonable place to eat. On the main street was a noodle place but the woman said she was closed. Seeing our crestfallen looks she pointed us down an alleyway across the road. Riding down, past a  garage and a couple of sheds we came to what looked like a large warehouse. Walking in, in our cycling gear, we were immediately the center of attention. Although scruffy, it was obviously a popular eating place with several small partitioned rooms with tables all full of people. A young man came out from one of these and offered to help us choose food from the menu as he spoke a little English. In the end he and the waitress chose food for us and it was a great meal.

The waitress's three children had just got home from school and were fascinated by our bikes and gadgets. Slowly the word spread and about ten of their friends also turned up to see the strange visitors. They showed us their English language school workbooks but the limit of their skills was 'hello'. About the same as our Chinese ones.

The large town is at an altitude of 974m and it was very cold. We decided to book into a hotel as it was more than 40km to the next place with accommodation. The Danzhai Guesthouse looked grand and newly refurbished and for 208 Y we got a big room with a sit on toilet (pure luxury), big TV (even one English language channel) and fluffy bathrobes. After having a shower Steve went off to wash the bikes leaving Karen in the room in her fluffy robe. A knock on the door revealed two Chinese police officers, who spoke no English, asking to see our passports. After a rather awkward exchange where neither side understood a word of what the other was saying they left, appearing satisfied.

That evening we went in search of a restaurant. There were plenty of little shops with cheap plastic stools and tables but a tablecloth and a comfy chair would be nice. Almost at the stage of giving up we spotted likely looking place. Inside we were ushered upstairs and into one of many small private dining rooms with a large circular table with a hotplate in the middle. The whole family came up with us and presented us with the usual many page menu and stood round waiting for our order. A request for fish received a negative response as did the one for duck. But they did have goose! They pointed to the first entry on the menu, which looked like some sort of banquet meal, for 2,4 or 6 people. It was quite expensive but we ordered it and waited for the food.

The meal consisted of a large pot of goose bits in gravy, which bubbled away on the hotplate, a huge bowl of steamed rice and a big basket of raw cabbage. Closer examination of the contents of the pot revealed a few bits of leg, mostly bone with small amounts of meat and ten goose feet. That was more than 3 yards! What had happened to the rest of the meat from these five fine birds. We sucked on the bones, tried one foot each and then contented ourselves with cooking the cabbage in the gravy and eating it with lots of rice.

Day 16: Danzhai to Duyun – 52km

• End altitude :785m 
• Gain:              929m
• Max altitude:1,155m
  

The morning was cold, misty and dismal with fine drizzle and occasional short bursts of rain. At 800m above sea level it was so cold that for the first time this trip we needed long tops, tights and windproof jackets. At least the road was reasonable, only a few rough parts at first. There were several long but gentle climbs through agricultural areas and small villages. In one valley we stopped and watched two men ploughing with buffalo.

The day continued with climbing and descents. The most memorable was a long sweeping gentle downhill on silky smooth newly laid tarmac. In the next town we passed a garage that was full of life size wire and paper horses being prepared for a festival.

 Still lots of building going on, this one being built in the traditional wooden style.

Duyun was once again a featureless Chinese town. At night all of the buildings along the river were illuminated with bright neon lights but they are just offices or residential blocks. We struggled to find a restaurant again. It is all very well eating at roadside stalls when it is warm but in the freezing cold it is not fun.

There was a place on the riverside but again we were taken upstairs into a private room with its large circular table and hotplate in the middle. Having learnt from our mistake of last night, we ordered three individual dishes (the menu had pictures, big help). It was a good meal but it felt very lonely in a room all by ourselves.

Day 17: Duyun to Guiding – 92km

• End altitude: 1,012m 
• Gain:             1,703m
• Max altitude:1,343m
  

It was still dull, cold and the clouds were low. Without any Internet last night we hadn't been able to check out the profile for today's ride. In retrospect that was probably a good thing. A puncture in Karen's back tyre within 20 minutes of setting out set the mood for the day. We were also feeling a bit bereft as after following the G321 ever since arriving in China, we were now on the G210

Most of the morning seemed to be climbing with occasional descents. All around us were steep sided mountains with their heads in the clouds. The road followed a deep tree lined gorge and then went through farms and villages. This is an important transport corridor with the road, motorway and railway all weaving in between the mountains.

As our altitude increased it got colder and the rain was heavier so we had to don the ponchos, mainly to try and keep warm. The area became more industrial with small quarries, cement works and lots of derelict buildings. It reminded us of some of the worst areas of West Yorkshire, especially with the cold weather.

There was a highlight to the day when we came across a really good roadside food place just at midday. We went into the kitchen (very loose description, more like a garage with a wood fire) and chose from a large variety of meats and vegetables. These were then cooked up in a big wok and served on a hotplate at the table with lots of rice.

After lunch the scenery was even more depressing with lots of industrial construction. There was a huge power station being built with massive cooling towers towering over the small houses around it. This was a Machangping, where we had planned to stay for the night. The town was awful with half built houses and derelict shops, piles of rubble and rubbish everywhere. It was 3pm and the next town was Guiding, 40km away.

What we didn't realise was that ahead of us was a 600m climb to 1,423m which meant frustratingly slow progress. As we toiled up the hills the motorway and railway soared above us on massive concrete bridges spanning the valleys. It was after 5pm when we reached the summit but from there was a long descent into Guiding so we just made it into town without having to put on our lights. It was a relief that the day was over after 1,765m of climbing.

Day Off: Guiding

We were too exhausted to get out of bed till 9.30am so decided to have a rest day. Out shopping in the market for fruit for breakfast we were picked up by a policewoman who wanted to see our passports and asked us to 'come with me'. We were panicking because we couldn't remember the name of the place where we were staying. Luckily she took us past our hotel and seemed happy enough once she had checked that they had photocopied our passports.After that we hid in our room for the rest of the day.

Day 18: Guiding to Guiyang – 85km

• End altitude:1,070m 
• Gain:              1,459m
• max altitude:1,408m
  

Although there was still hazy cloud over the mountains, it was a much warmer morning, and later, as the sun rose over the peaks, it was quite warm. The ride started with a long climb up to 1100m. The road wound through a number of large quarries and was busy with heavy, stone carrying lorries. As usual these were completely overloaded and the road was littered with huge chunks of rock which had fallen off them. We made a mental note not to ride too close. There were also trucks (over) laden with tarmac that sprinkled some of their load at every hairpin. They had to stop halfway up the hill to let their engines cool.

The day continued with a feeling that we were constantly climbing. Grinding up a 5km climb took an hour while at 45kph the descent took only minutes. The scenery was pleasant but not outstanding. By lunch we had reached Longli, about halfway. Lunch was followed by a puncture repair for Karen's front wheel.

The approach to the city of Guiyang was predictably manic and confusing, but we found this small haven of peace at the local cemetry, being carefully tended by grounds people.

As we passed by its impressive entrance peaceful music played.





The G206 crosses under the motorway on a rough, unsurfaced section and the road layout bears little resemblance to the map. We estimated that we still had 7km to the town centre and the terrain was very hilly with lots of small but steep hills.

As we followed the road parallel to the motorway a group of three Chinese mountain bikers caught up with us. After a couple of kilometers we came to a road junction for the freeway into Guiyang. The mountain bikers stopped us and with some sign language suggested that if we followed them we could avoid the long hilly approach on the G206. They turned up the slip road to the freeway, riding blatantly past the 'No Bicycles' sign and onto the freeway. After about 3km there was a 2km tunnel with a gentle downhill gradient and the six of us (another cyclist was also ignoring the bike ban) shot down through the thankfully well lit tunnel.

The traffic in Guiyang was the busiest we have yet come across. Bumper to bumper cars and taxis

and hardly any motorbikes. Each traffic light junction was patrolled by several policeman to enforce the traffic light signals as most Chinese drivers simply ignore them. On the pavements were uniformed crossing controllers who were in charge of pedestrians, blocking the crossings with ropes when the lights were on green.

On the bikes we made much faster progress than the vehicles. The roads through the centre are all fenced, no pedestrian areas so once on them it was difficult to get off. Finding a hotel proved difficult and a ride right through the central area found only a couple of very sleazy ones. The first promising one, near the train station, refused to book in foreign nationals but directed us down the road to the 4 star Forest City Wanyi Hotel. It was a bit more expensive but as it was nearly dark and we were dog tired we booked in for 2 nights and b***** the budget.

Once we'd washed the grime off our bodies we walked out to find food. There were lots of food stalls along the streets but nothing tempted us. We went into the massive Honk Long Mall and found a place called LA Diner. The chef owner was an American called James and came over to chat with us. Originally from LA he had spent the last 8 years living and working in China and spoke fluent Mandarin. He had spent his time working with many of the famous chefs in China, learning how to cook the local specialities and was planning to return to LA to open an authentic Chinese restaurant.

The meal was very good and we got to sample six varieties of homemade ice-cream for free. We also got recommendations for several local restaurants serving unique Guiyang cuisine for tomorrow night.

Day Off: Guiyang

We had a lie in and did some web work in the morning. Later we strolled along the river bank, watching the Chinese enjoy their Sunday afternoon. There were many groups playing and watching board games. A lot of money was being wagered on card games.

Small pavement stalls offered denture repairs or sales of pre-used sets.Others were administering acupuncture in the middle of the throng. Many unusual and questionable herbs and powders were mixed into medicines. Groups of men sold probably illegal animal pelts and fur clothing. A long row of stalls sold carved stone sculptures and jewellery. Men and women wandered through the crowds with merchandise, tobacco, fruit, brushes, sweets.

The squares were full of music and people dancing.

Karen got to have a try. The lady held onto her so tightly she couldn't escape.

Men played 'whip and top' with large metal humming tops.  By the river there was kite flying and fishing.

Everywhere was teeming with people but generally the pace was slow and unhurried. We stood by a fish pond whilst listening to this gent playing the two stringed fiddle.